Vitamin C: benefits and how to use it for your post-summer skincare routine
With the change of season, skincare can become a valuable ally in helping the skin recover after summer exposure and regain radiance, evenness and comfort through a targeted routine that includes active ingredients such as vitamin C, appreciated for its antioxidant properties and its role in supporting the skin’s natural functions.
After summer, the skin tends to look duller, dehydrated, and uneven. Exposure to solar radiation, together with wind, heat, saltwater, and the natural changes in daily habits, can in fact contribute to making the natural transepidermal water loss associated with the warmer months more noticeable, while bringing out pigmentation, fine lines, uneven texture, irritation and an unpleasant feeling of discomfort.
It is precisely at this time that vitamin C can become an interesting ingredient for the skin care routine. Best known for its antioxidant function, this active ingredient also plays an important role in the skin in collagen synthesis processes and in the regulation of melanogenesis, the biological process through which specialised skin cells produce melanin.
For this reason, incorporating products based on ascorbic acid can be considered a valuable support when returning to a daily routine, especially when the goal is to improve the brightness, evenness, texture and overall appearance of the complexion. Its use should nevertheless be incorporated into a complete skincare routine that includes gentle cleansing, hydration and, above all, adequate protection from UV rays. Vitamin C, in fact, does not replace sun protection, but can represent an interesting complement within a daily skin-care strategy.
Vitamin C for the skin: why it is essential after summer
During summer, the skin is exposed to greater exposure to ultraviolet rays, particularly UVA and UVB rays. These stimuli can promote the formation of reactive oxygen species (ROS), molecules involved in oxidative stress processes. When the production of these species exceeds the capacity of the skin’s antioxidant systems to neutralise them, alterations may occur at the level of lipids, proteins and cellular structures.
Oxidative stress is one of the mechanisms involved in photoaging, the process through which chronic exposure to UV radiation progressively contributes to changes in the appearance and structure of the skin. Possible consequences include alterations in pigmentation, loss of elasticity, changes in texture and greater visibility of fine lines. As a result, at the end of the summer months, the skin may appear less luminous and less even. Vitamin C, a water-soluble molecule with significant antioxidant activity, can donate electrons to oxidising species, helping to limit their reactivity and maintain the balance of the antioxidant system.
Chronic exposure to UV rays can promote certain processes that increase the degradation of components of the extracellular matrix, including collagen, one of the main structural proteins of connective tissue. Ascorbic acid acts as a cofactor for specific enzymes, including prolyl hydroxylase and lysyl hydroxylase, which are involved in the maturation of collagen molecules. These reactions are necessary for collagen fibres to acquire a stable structure, especially in the presence of external stressors such as those associated with sunlight.
When understanding what vitamin C is used for, however, it is important to distinguish the biological role of vitamin C from the observable cosmetic effect. Applying a product containing vitamin C does not result in the immediate reconstruction of collagen fibres: any structural benefits require consistent use and depend on the formulation and on the active ingredient’s ability to reach the skin in a biologically available form.
A third mechanism of interest concerns melanogenesis, that is, the process through which melanocytes produce melanin. Exposure to UV rays can stimulate this process as part of the skin’s biological response to radiation, contributing to the appearance or accentuation of pigmentation. Vitamin C can interfere with certain stages of melanogenesis and, in particular, with the oxidative processes involved in melanin formation. Its use should not, however, be interpreted as a universal treatment for hyperpigmentation: certain types may have different causes and respond differently to cosmetic active ingredients. Furthermore, without proper photoprotection, continued exposure to UV rays can keep the mechanisms that promote pigmentation active.
Vitamin C and photoprotection: two different but complementary functions
When discussing vitamin C and skin protection in summer, it is important to distinguish between two different biological mechanisms: photoprotection and antioxidant action. Although the former has a protective action against UVA and UVB rays, it does not constitute a sunscreen and, even when applied topically, cannot replace a cream formulated and tested to protect the skin from ultraviolet radiation.
Depending on their nature and formulation, these products can absorb, reflect or disperse part of the radiation, acting upstream and limiting the skin’s exposure to sunlight. Vitamin C, on the other hand, acts “downstream”, intervening in some of the cellular processes that can be activated by UV radiation, including the formation of reactive oxygen species. These molecules are part of normal cellular processes, but when produced in excessive quantities they can contribute to oxidative stress and damage lipids, proteins and other cellular components.
Ascorbic acid, thanks to its ability to donate electrons, can act as an antioxidant and contribute to the neutralisation of certain reactive species. Vitamin C therefore participates in the skin’s antioxidant defence systems and can help maintain the balance between the production of oxidising species and the body’s ability to counteract them.
This distinction is important because it also dispels the widespread belief that vitamin C and photoprotection should not be used together: on the contrary, they can and should be combined, because they perform different and complementary functions. Sun protection nevertheless remains the final step of the routine before exposure and should be applied in an adequate amount and reapplied every two hours, or after swimming or heavy sweating.
Vitamin C serums: how to choose a truly effective cosmetic product
Among the most widely used cosmetics for applying ascorbic acid to the skin is vitamin C serum, a formulation designed to deliver the active ingredient to the skin’s surface and promote its availability in the more superficial layers of the skin. Not all vitamin C serums, however, are the same: in addition to the percentage of active ingredient stated on the label, an important factor to consider is the quality of the formulation.
Due to its particular chemical properties, the molecule can in fact degrade in the presence of factors such as oxygen, light, temperature, and inappropriate pH conditions. During oxidation, ascorbic acid, one of the most widely used forms of vitamin C thanks to its high bioavailability, can be transformed into dehydroascorbic acid and, through further reactions, progressively lose the characteristics that make its cosmetic use interesting. For this reason, protecting the molecule during production, storage and use of the product represents one of the main challenges in cosmetic formulation.
A second aspect concerns vitamin C’s ability to reach the skin. L-ascorbic acid is a hydrophilic molecule, while the stratum corneum, that is, the outermost part of the epidermis, constitutes a predominantly lipophilic barrier, which naturally makes it difficult for the molecule to pass through the skin barrier. In this regard, several studies have highlighted the importance of pH in improving the skin’s ability to absorb this active ingredient: in particular, acidic conditions, generally with a pH below 3.5, promote the skin penetration of the non-ionised form of the molecule. Concentration also contributes to the amount that can be delivered into the skin, but increasing it beyond certain levels does not automatically mean obtaining a more effective product.
To overcome these difficulties, at least in part, various vitamin C derivatives for the face have been developed. These include, for example, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, ascorbyl glucoside, ascorbyl palmitate and fat-soluble forms such as tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate. These molecules are chemically modified compared with ascorbic acid with the aim of improving characteristics such as stability, solubility or their ability to be incorporated into a formulation. However, this process and the actual clinical effectiveness are not necessarily equivalent to those of L-ascorbic acid.
The formulation may also make use of a combination of several antioxidants. A particularly well-studied example is the combination of vitamin C, vitamin E and ferulic acid, used in some formulations to improve the stability of vitamin C and enhance overall antioxidant activity.
How to incorporate vitamin C into your skincare after summer
After summer, incorporating vitamin C into your skincare does not necessarily mean revolutionising your routine or using many products. On the contrary, especially when the skin has been exposed to sun, heat, wind, saltwater and frequent washing, it may be more useful to start with an essential, well-tolerated routine, gradually introducing the active ingredients of interest.
A basic routine can be organised into a few steps:
- gentle cleansing, to remove sebum, sweat, product residue and impurities without excessively altering the skin barrier. After summer, it is particularly important to avoid overly aggressive cleansers if the skin appears dry, feels tight or tends to become red;
- vitamin C serum, applied to cleansed skin according to the instructions on the label. Ideally, the product should be applied in the morning, before moisturiser and sunscreen. Vitamin C does not necessarily need to be applied several times a day: the frequency depends on the formulation and individual tolerance;
- moisturising cream, chosen according to the skin type and its condition. Hydration helps maintain the integrity of the skin barrier and can be particularly useful when the skin appears dehydrated or more sensitive after summer exposure;
- broad-spectrum sunscreen, as the final step of the morning routine. It is an essential element even when using vitamin C: as we have seen, the two products do not replace one another, but act through different mechanisms and can be used together.
How to introduce vitamin C into your skincare routine
The frequency of application can be adapted to the characteristics of the skin. Those who have never used a vitamin C product can start with less frequent application, for example every other day, observing how the skin reacts and potentially increasing the frequency gradually.
This approach is particularly useful with L-ascorbic acid-based formulations, especially when they contain high concentrations and have an acidic pH. Some people may experience a slight tingling sensation. However, persistent burning, marked redness, or itching are all signs that suggest discontinuing use and reassessing the use of the product.
It is therefore not necessary to automatically choose the highest concentration available. A well-tolerated formulation used consistently may be more suitable for your routine than a highly concentrated product that causes irritation and is only used occasionally.
Vitamin C and other active ingredients: why it is better not to overdo it
After summer, there may be a temptation to combine several cosmetic ingredients at the same time to address multiple skin concerns simultaneously: vitamin C for its antioxidant activity, exfoliating acids to improve brightness, retinoids for skin renewal and other active ingredients intended for blemishes or imperfections. Combining several active ingredients is not necessarily wrong, but it requires attention. Increasing the number of products at the same time makes it more difficult to understand which ingredient is responsible for any potential irritation. For this reason, it may be preferable to introduce one new active ingredient at a time, especially when the skin is already sensitised.
The goal is not, in fact, to use the greatest possible number of products, but to build a consistent, sustainable routine that is compatible with the characteristics of your skin. Skincare works above all when it is maintained over time and when products are used correctly, without overloading the skin with unnecessary treatments.
If, on the other hand, the skin appears particularly sensitised, irritated or compromised after summer, it would be preferable to temporarily postpone the introduction of new active ingredients and initially focus on gentle cleansing, hydration and support for the skin barrier. In the presence of persistent irritation or specific skin concerns, it is in any case advisable to consult a dermatologist for a personalised assessment.
There are also various vitamin C supplements which, in cases of severe deficiencies, can help meet the optimal daily requirement of this micronutrient. However, they should not be considered a substitute for a proper diet and adequate skincare.
Vitamin C and beauty treatments: Citrus Drench and Citrus Essence at Doglio Club
Vitamin C can find a place not only in daily skincare, but also as part of a professional programme dedicated to skin care and wellbeing. A treatment in the treatment room can in fact represent a weekly or monthly indulgence, to be combined with a home routine according to the specific needs of the skin.
At the Doglio Club Mindfulness Spa, the exclusive wellness centre inside the prestigious Palazzo Doglio in Cagliari, the menu features two treatments that enhance the cosmetic properties of vitamin C. The Citrus Essence is an antioxidant and revitalising facial treatment, particularly suitable for restoring brightness and vitality to the skin after exposure to the sun and to the environmental factors typical of the summer months. It therefore fits perfectly into a post-summer skincare programme, when the skin may appear duller, dehydrated or less even. Completing the offering is The Citrus Drench, a body treatment based on vitamin C emulsions, designed to combine exfoliation, hydration and skin protection. A true ritual dedicated to the body, allowing you to care for the epidermis after the summer months and restore its softness and radiance.
The Citrus Essence treatment lasts approximately 60 minutes and costs a total of 130 euros, while The Citrus Drench has the same duration but a lower cost, 120 euros. For bookings, it is possible to call 070-64-64-156 or send an email to @club@palazzodoglio.com.
Would you like to discover the benefits of vitamin C and enjoy a holiday dedicated to elegance and charm? Book a stay at Palazzo Doglio in Cagliari
