Discovering Castello district in Cagliari, the historic heart of the city
Castello district: a precious jewel dominates the Sardinian capital from the top of a hill, a magical place where past crosses paths with present giving visitors a fascinating journey experience through the stages that made the lively history of Cagliari, the City of the Sun.
Entering the historic district of Castello, you’re immediately captivated by the unique atmosphere that permeates every corner here: limestone rock houses, majestic towers and noble palaces, attentive witnesses of battles, intrigues and loves from the past, interspersed with picturesque views, small hidden squares and winding alleys resembling a maze, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in this area of the city where time stood in a distant era and seems to be never flowing, where every stone, every building, has stories and secrets to tell.
Spending a few hours (even whole days) in this particular space in the ancient heart of Cagliari, which from its elevated position dominates a large part of the city (the district extends over a hill of limestone origin, about 100 meters above the sea level), is a great occasion to discover the most authentic essence of the ancient city of Karalis, retracing the events that have marked its thousand-years history.
Castéddu ‘e Súsu, history of the oldest and most fascinating district of Cagliari
The history of Castello originates back in 1200’s, when Pisans moved the headquarters of civil, military and religious power to this elevated area of the city, previously housed in the judicial capital of Santa Igia instead, which was destroyed and lost forever. Castel di Castro, which gives its name to the neighborhood, was in fact originally built as a fortified fortress surrounded by imposing walls and defensive towers, such as the Torre di San Pancrazio (the tallest in Cagliari), and Torre dell’Elefante, testimonies of an ancient past that still dominates the city panorama today, delimiting access to the district respectively from north-east and west, on the border with Stampace, another one of the four historic districts of Cagliari.
Castéddu’ e Súsu (Sardinian name which means upper castle) always played a role of great strategic importance even under the subsequent domination by Aragonese, Spanish, Austrian and Savoy, and still until WW2, in a mix of contaminations and influences which over the centuries left a mark on the architectural structure and on the social, cultural and artistic soul of the whole neighborhood, as evidenced by all the noble palaces, churches and monuments that you can visit here, including the main centers of citizen power (Castello district still hosts important institutions, such as the Prefecture and the Council Chamber of the metropolitan city of Cagliari, both housed at Palazzo Regio located in Piazza Palazzo).
This important role contributed establishing a symbolic yet concrete identification between this neighborhood and the city itself, indeed Cagliari is often addressed like Casteddu.
Baroque churches, historic doors, breathtaking glimpses: the unmissable places in Castello district in Cagliari
Today, walking through the streets of Castello feels like visiting an open-air museum, hanging halfway between the hypnotic turquoise of the sea and the brilliant blue of the sky, and illuminated by a shining sun above picturesque views, a big source of inspiration for poets, artists and writers.
For example English writer David Herbert Lawrence, famous for his masterpiece Sea and Sardinia (1921), a work halfway between a tourist guide from times gone by and a hymn to the beauty of this land, documenting in an extremely detailed manner the landscape and the anthropological reality of this territory; he wrote: “The summit of Cagliari is the fortress: the old gate, the old bastions of beautiful yellowish honeycomb sandstone. The surrounding wall rises up with a wide curvature, Spanish-styled, splendid and steep”. Exactly these walls delimit the entrance to the city, protecting its essence from the rest of the world, but still inviting visitors to get in, welcoming them in a warm embrace.
An entrance which is still possible today only through the four main historic gates of Cagliari: Porta Cristina (built in 1825 under the reign of Carlo Felice of Savoy, who named it after his wife and which led directly into the heart of the district, connecting Viale Buoncammino with the historic prison in Piazza Arsenale, one of the main squares in the Sardinian capital), Porta dei Leoni (located south of the neighborhood near the famous Torre dell’Elefante, and adorned by two lions carved in stone), Porta di San Pancrazio (one of the main access roads to the neighborhood in the Middle Age, located near the namesake tower, leading to direct access to one of the highest and most panoramic sides of Castello, where to enjoy breathtaking views of the city and the sea), and Porta di Villanova (which connects Castello district to the “youngest” of the historic districts, Villanova).
Once crossed these doors, you’ll head into a sort of small universe apart, in which precious testimonies of the Pisan foundation immediately stand out, such as the evocative Cathedral of Santa Maria (or Cathedral of Cagliari), the main place of christian worship in the city and one of the most important monuments in the whole Sardinia, built in the 1200’s firstly as a church dedicated to Santa Cecilia, then elevated to the rank of cathedral on the Aragonese domination in 1300’s. However, it was only with the arrival of the Savoys in the 1700’s that the original building was restored and modified in its appearance, incorporating both baroque and neoclassical elements (the current facade was rebuilt at the beginning of 1900’s, but maintaining the original style).
Castello district in Cagliari also hosts other churches of great historical and artistic value: for example Basilica of Santa Croce, built in the 1500’s on the remains of an ancient synagogue; the Church of San Giuseppe Calasanzio, built between 1600’s and 1700’s as a true jewel of Baroque architecture, which invites meditation in sober elegance and simplicity; the Church of Santa Lucia, dedicated to the Syracusan martyr; and the Church of Santa Maria del Monte, dating back to 1500’s, today headquarter of the famous Order of Malta, an important place of worship and reflection that offers a magnificent panoramic view over the whole city.
However, it is difficult to compete with the enchanting view from the top of the Bastion of Saint Remy, perhaps the most famous panoramic point in Cagliari. Built at the end of 1800’s on the ancient Spanish bastions of Zecca and Sperone, this imposing spectacular building is connected to the panoramic Terrazza Umberto I by a monumental staircase, a real breathtaking balcony hanging over the city from which to enjoy a full panoramic view over the Gulf of Cagliari, the ancient Marina district, the majestic Viale Regina Margherita and the typical red roofs of the old town. The advice is to visit this magical place at sunset, when the sky turns orange and pink and the horizon seems to merge with the sea.
In this lively neighborhood there are also some of the most significant historic buildings in Cagliari, once icon of power and prestige and today testimonies of the opulence of past, such as: Palazzo Regio, dating back to Pisan era and used as a noble residence during the following Aragonese, Spanish and Savoy domination, today seat of the Prefecture and the office of the Province of Cagliari; and the ancient Town Hall, from the Middle Ages until the early 1900’s headquarter of the Municipality of Cagliari, which has recently been converted in an exhibition space which hosts interesting temporary exhibitions of contemporary art, an opportunity for tourists to experience an unforgettable journey between past and present.
Palazzo delle Seziate is also a very important place to take into account, once used for the sessions of the Judicial Court; consider also the Bishop’s Palace located next to the Cathedral of Santa Maria, the University Palace and Palazzo Boyl, a neoclassical style building which reflects the artistic influence of other works by the same architect, Carlos Pilo Boyl, such as Porta del Regio Arsenale and Porta Cristina.
Castello neighborhood hosts also other unmissable attractions, above all the National Archaeological Museum: located in Cittadella dei Musei (Museums Citadel), it includes a wide collection of finds covering over 7000 years of Sardinian history, starting from Nuragic civilizations up to Roman age. Each chamber of the museum offers a true dive into the past, where to admire statues, ceramics, weapons and jewels that tell the story of the life and religious beliefs of the ancient inhabitants of Ichnusa.
Inside the complex there are also: the National Cagliari ArtGallery, where it is possible to see ancient altarpieces, beautiful religious paintings and works of art by local artists; the Anatomical Wax Museum, with a collection of 23 anatomical models created in early 1800’s by Clemente Susini; and the Siamese Art Museum, which houses a magnificent collection of weapons, porcelain and objects of oriental manufacture, especially from Thailand.
Elegance and modernity meet at Palazzo Doglio, privileged starting point to discover the best of Castello district on your visit to Cagliari
But Castello District is not just a collection of ancient churches, noble palaces and walls. It is a vibrant place, where life flows slowly but intensely. Walking through its streets, you come across artisan shops selling typical products and unique creations, welcoming cafés where to enjoy a break sipping a good espresso or a glass of Vermentino, and restaurants where to taste traditional Sardinian dishes prepared with local ingredients by classic recipes.
An exciting centre of culture and tradition, where every year multiple events take place attracting visitors from all over Sardinia and beyond, to be experienced firsthand discovering the most evocative views of this land. Indeed, getting lost in the maze of Castello district is perhaps the best way to learn its most intimate secrets and details.
So, what better way to keep alive the wonder of this fascinating neighborhood than staying in one of the buildings that best embody the timeless beauty of the ancient liveliness of the Sardinian capital? We are speaking of Palazzo Doglio, a luxurious five-star hotel located in via Logudoro, in the heart of the city, combining the classic elegance of furnishings embellished with classic details, such as the white Carrara marble which contrasts with the colorful and precious Emperador marble, and the avant-garde feeling of the design objects inside rooms and suites, one of its greatests trengths together with a rich offer of services dedicated to personal care and entertainment to pleasantly bring the guest into a city within the city.
Hence, here a dinner in the prestigious Osteria del Forte, a modern restaurant that combines tradition and innovation in a unique concept, overlooking the marvelous Corte Doglio, a large outdoor space modeled as the ancient Italian squares, can be following a regenerating treatment at the Mindfulness Spa, an entertaining theater show with family at Teatro Doglio, or a sunset swim in the crystal clear waters of the picturesque Poetto beach (the hotel also offers a dedicated beach area at the historic Il Lido beach property).
In short, Palazzo Doglio gives you everything to best experience the city of Cagliari from a privileged point of view, enjoying the magic of South Sardinia in all its extraordinary hues.
For further information, please phone call to the number +3907064640 or write an email to info@palazzodoglio.com.
Do you want to discover the treasures and secrets of the ancient Castello district and spend a holiday full of charm and elegance? Book a stay at Palazzo Doglio in Cagliari
